Memoirs of (Seeing) a Geisha
in Kyoto...
January 25-26, 2006
This was the only day I had planned out prior to coming out here. I was going to be spending the night in Kyoto and wanted to make
sure I had a place. By 7am, I was up and heading to the train station. One bullet train ride later and I am now in Kyoto. When picking
a place to stay, I thought this would be the perfect city to stay in a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. I found a place that looked
great online (especially for the price) and I was given directions on how to get here from the train station.
The directions looked really easy. Only one part could be cause for confusion. ‘Turn right on the fourth corner.’ Well, there were lots
of corners that I passed that were all of varying degrees. I stopped approximately 6 different groups of Japanese people to show
them the address and directions that I had and was unsuccessful each time (let’s face it, it’s hard to be successful when you can’t
communicate with anybody). I had been walking around for about an hour up and down the same street with no luck at all. Every
side street looked the same with lots of little inns on each one. Every person I asked was so sweet and some even walked with me up
and down the street to help me. But to no avail. I finally found some little pension and I was ready to throw in the towel and just stay
at this little place. When I walked in the man was very nice and I could barely contain my excitement when I saw what was sitting
right in front of him…a computer! I had a website for my ryokan. He took it upon himself to look up my place and find the directions
of how to get there. I was a mere four little side streets away. He even walked me outside to show me out to get there! Such is the
Japanese hospitality.
When I saw the ‘TOWA’ sign, I literally almost started skipping I was so excited. I checked in, dropped off my backpack and went to
wander around central Kyoto. On one side of the river, there are people coming and going at every angle. On the other side, the pace
is a bit more leisurely.
Before crossing the river, I saw this beautiful store that sold rice crackers and sweets of all kinds. When the lady saw me looking at
the storefront, she invited me in and poured me a cup of tea. She spoke a bit of English, which is a bit rare for this area, so I was
happy to be communicating a bit with somebody. When asking me a question, I started nodding in excitement. Meanwhile, what I
was also doing was spilling the tea all over myself, my camera and the impeccably clean floor. They rushed to get me a towel to wipe
me and my camera off but they wouldn’t let me clean up the floor. In fact, they left it there until after I had left (I’m guessing to not
make me feel bad about it). I sampled different bean products and ended up with a type of spicy rice cracker. They even gave me a
beautiful postcard as a gift.
Now it was time to cross the river and go to the Gion district. This is the area that is infamously known for geisha. I was lucky
enough to see maiko, the apprentice geisha. I actually saw two of them as they were having their pictures professionally taken. The
women who paid for these girls was making sure everything was just right on each of them so that these girls would be highly sought
after. Reading or watching Memoirs of a Geisha definitely helps one understand the culture behind this unique lifestyle.
As I was walking to the shrine after wandering through side streets, it started snowing. It lasted for all of 5 minutes but it was great
while it lasted. Within 15 minutes, the sun was glowing again. I went to the Yasaka Shrine and then ended up in Maruyama Park.
This is one of the most popular places to see the cherry blossoms in spring. Needless to say, there’s not too much ‘oohing’ and
‘aahing’ to do in the winter when all of the trees are completely bare.
Before long, I was back at my hotel. I mean ryokan. And believe me…there is a difference. When I got back here, they led me up to
my room where they had already put my bags. When I entered, there was an area to put my shoes in a cubbyhole. I then went
through another door and this was my room. The floor was made up of tatami mats and there was a television (which looked more
like a computer screen) in the corner. There was only a table set up with green tea that they poured for me and a pillow to kneel on.
They had already asked what time I would like dinner when I checked in so that gave me an hour from this point to get ready.
The great thing is that my room had the bathroom in my room and I didn’t have to use to communal one. Luckily I had gone to the
onsen in Hakone so I was aware of the protocol. To shower, you sit on the stool and after you’re done with that then you can go into
the bath. There is something so relaxing about this. Upon getting out, you put the kimono-style robe on and wait for them to bring
the dinner up to your room. The dinner that came included with my room was a kaiseki dinner. This is something that Japan is
known for and it consists of many little courses. At 7pm on the dot, my dinner arrived to my room. They presented it beautifully and
it consisted of all sorts of things. All sorts of things that I really have no idea what they were. I made a pact with myself to try a bit of
everything. The funny thing is that while I thought the sashimi was going to be my favorite part, that paled in comparison with some
of the more ‘unique’ looking foods. I literally savored every bite. The only thing I didn’t finish was the rice. Everything else was
history. The moral of the story is one that we all learned long ago: Don’t judge a book by its cover.
After dinner, my dishes were cleared from my room and my ‘bed’ (a futon-like mattress) was set up. And such is how it’s done at a
ryokan.
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January 26, 2006
I started this morning off with my traditional Japanese breakfast. This is the stuff that I have always given a weird look at when
seeing it at breakfast buffets in Hawaii. I now have a whole new respect for it. Just like last night, there were several items spread
out before me: eggs (that looked like the tamago sushi), grilled salmon, miso soup, freshly cooked tofu, steamed rice and a couple
other things that tasted good but I have absolutely no idea what they were. And tea…lots of tea. While it sounds like a lot, everything
is in such small proportions that it’s not like you feel stuffed afterwards. Just content and happy that I picked this place to stay while
I was here.
Today it was time to see more of this great city of Kyoto. I really just think it’s wonderful here. With my personal cost-control plan
taking place, I opted for the day pass on the bus vs. taking the subway or doing a tour. It seemed easy enough…and it was! This is
definitely the way to go around and see what Kyoto has to offer.
In an effort to zen out, I started my day out at the Ryoanji Temple where it is known for it’s zen garden. Unfortunately I came at the
wrong time…a zen garden loses a bit of its zen when it’s being renovated. But the grounds were beautiful. Next stop was Kinkakuji
Temple. This is known for the Golden Pavilion. I have faith that I don’t need to explain what this was. The last thing in this area that
I really wanted to do was go to this other zen garden that was on the way to the other things I was doing today. This was the at the
Daitokuji Temple. Even though I didn’t see the other zen garden in all its glory, I really liked this one better. Very beautiful, very
relaxing and very…well…zen. I did actually have an un-zen moment while there. I thought of when ‘Frank the Tank’—our former
temp at work with a few screws loose—knocked over April’s mini zen garden that she had on her desk. That caused me to chuckle
but then I quickly composed myself again. I don’t know what it is about rocks that are raked over—I think the pattern just leaves
you in a trance. It was great just to sit down and do nothing but stare. I also had tea there in the traditional manner (they actually
whisked it to death with a brush-like thing until it was frothy) while looking onto a garden which just furthered the entire experience.
Next bus stop was going to be where I was going to start my ‘Philosopher’s Walk’ - this is something I had read about in a couple
guide books. This is about a one-mile long walk along a canal that apparently makes people ponder life’s bigger questions. As for me,
all I was really pondering was how I was going to get more yen out of an ATM. Or any yen out of an ATM, for that matter. Luckily I
went and got approximately $250 worth of yen before I left San Francisco. That clearly isn’t enough for 9 days…but it would at least
do until I got here. Or so I thought. Apparently I missed the memo that it’s nearly impossible to get out cash with a ‘foreign’ card.
Banks here will only give money to credit cards issued by a Japanese company. Houston, we have a problem! So while there are
many sights to see out here, I need to prioritize my serious lack of cash. I then was walking up to one of the temples that was on my
Philosopher’s Walk. En route, I stopped at this store that had very nicely packaged sweets. While I was looking they poured me tea
and gave me samples. Holy yumminess! The problem was that they did not take credit cards, the products weren’t cheap and, well, I
am very yen-poor right now. I bought one little thing but had to leave the things I really loved behind. I wanted to get one for Dave
and one for Masayo as a treat. So while back on my Philosopher’s Walk I figured out that I could afford either buying the cookies or
going to the temple (that I was told was one of the best). The World Heritage Site lost out in this battle and I was off to see the nice
man who so kindly gave me green tea and samples of his goodies. As I was heading back off to continue my walk I then started to
regret not getting these cookies for my sister (who I know would love them). So I headed back (yet again) to pick one up for her.
Now I felt good. It would have been selfish for me to go see an UNESCO World Heritage sight when I could buy cookies for others.
After seeing many other beautiful things all over Kyoto (including a 24 meter tall Buddha and several more geisha), it was time to
pick up my bags from where I stayed and head to the train station. I saw an ATM and stood in line to make yet another effort to
increase my spending habits while I’m here. While waiting in line, I saw that there was actually a Café du Monde on the opposite side
of me! Turns out the Japanese don’t need to go all the way to New Orleans to experience some beignet goodness…they only need to
go as far as Kyoto Station. So I was the next person in line for the ATM and I noticed a sign posted. It said that it did not accept
foreign cards (shocker!) but the ATM on the bottom floor of the Kyoto Tower had one for us ignorant travelers who didn’t pull out
enough money before we left home. So I high-tailed it across the street and found that ATM and scored myself another 10,000 yen
(about $80). As I sit here on the bullet train, I’m left to wonder if all of my pondering this topic on my Philosopher’s Walk had some
sort of role in this. Let’s face it, I’m way too much of a realist to think that. One bank was just smart enough to know how to bring
more tourist dollars into their country...
The garden at Ryoanji Temple
| Maiko, or apprentice geisha, pose for their professional pictures |
